5 days in Puglia

Published on Oct 11, 2023 by Amparo's travels & musingsLeave a comment

Hello!!

A couple of months ago, I visited the beautiful region of Apulia in southern Italy (Puglia in Italian) and it was amazing! If you’re looking for a budget-friendly holiday destination with fantastic food that will have you living out all your main character dreams, you need to add this to your list. This is what we got up to!

Day 1 – Bari to Monopoli

Puglia is a southern region forming the heel of Italy’s “boot,” and is known for its whitewashed hill towns and beautiful coastline. We started our trip in Bari, the capital of the region; a vibrant port and university town. The old town (Bari Vecchia), is a maze of narrow roads and white dry-stone wall buildings; local women sit outside their houses expertly moulding delicate orecchiette (little ears) whilst chatting and updating each other on the latest town gossip. You’ll see orecchiette made in varying sizes and colours; if you want to buy some get a bag of the traditional orecchiette which is small and pale in colour.

How do I get to Puglia?

We flew to Bari airport, but you can also fly to Brindisi airport and start your trip from there. From the airport, we took the train to Bari Centrale. The train station is next to the airport, and it took us around 20 minutes to reach the centre. Tickets cost €5.20 per person for a single trip.

Once we reached Bari, it was time to find something to eat! If you fancy something quick but quite filling, I recommend getting an octopus sandwich from one of the many sandwich shops around Bari; it’s so good! We had some time to spare, so we opted for a sit-down meal at La Tana del Polpo. I had seen quite a few people recommend this restaurant but it was a little disappointing, so I won’t go into any details.

After lunch, we returned to the station to take the train to Monopoli where we would be based for most of our trip.

Monopoli

Monopoli is a short train ride away from Bari, great if you’re just planning to visit for the day. The train journey from Bari Centrale station to Monopoli station takes 25 minutes and costs €3.60 per person for a single journey. Monopoli is a beautiful city and is the city in Apulia that has the longest stretch of the Via Traiana. This is one of the most important Roman roads of the Empire. Often overlooked, but with its beautiful buildings, vintage cars and charming little blue fishing boats, you’ll love wandering around Monopoli.

Places to visit in Monopoli

Cattedrale Maria Santissima della Madia
Castelo Carlo V
Porto Antico
Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi
Museo e Sito Acheologico Cripta Romanica (Archaeological museum)
Cala Porta Vecchia (public beach)

Whilst staying in Monopoli, the beach that we liked the most and that we could easily reach on foot (5 minutes from our Airbnb) was Porto Rosso. It’s small but a lot more comfortable than Cala Porta Vecchia which doesn’t get as many hours of sun and is also affected by the tide. Porto Rosso is around a 20-minute walk from the centre.

For dinner, we went to Trattoria La Locanda dei Mercanti. We loved it so much we went twice! It does get really busy so you might have to wait a bit to be seated but it’s worth it. We had orecchiette with tomato sauce (so simple, so tasty), grilled octopus, a plate of frittura mista which is a mix of fried seafood and to finish it all off the owner then gave us free dessert! It was called Sporcamuss which means dirty snout. They were little squares of pastry filled with custard and covered in powdered sugar which inevitably ends up all over your face, hence the name. The perfect way to end the day.

The restaurant is open every day except Wednesday, for lunch and dinner (closed for dinner on Sunday).

Day 2 – Alberobello

Probably one of the most famous towns in Apulia; the whitewashed houses with conical roofs, known as Trulli, are beautiful little constructions. There are over 1,500 structures in the quarters of Rione Monti and Aja Piccola. We loved wandering around town getting lost between old and newly restored Trulli. Don’t stick to the main two streets, head over to the church and communal gardens and have a little wander around there.

The Trulli

Trulli were generally constructed as temporary field shelters and storehouses or as permanent dwellings by small-scale landowners or agricultural labourers. The roofs of buildings often have mythological or religious markings in white ash and have a decorative pinnacle whose purpose is to ward off evil influences or bad luck.

Just a little warning, the main streets of Alberobello can get extremely busy with tourists and the streets can be very slippery.

How to get to Alberobello

If you’re staying in Monopoli, you can buy coach tickets from Agenzia Viaggi Tourist Intercontinental in Piazza S. Antonio, Monopoli. Tickets are €2.90 one way and €5.80 for a round-trip (prices may vary).

Day 3 – Polignano a Mare

After a day at the beach, we headed to Polignano a Mare for the most spectacular sunset. As we got closer to the bridge above Lama Monachile, the sky began to shift from pink to lilac. It was breathtaking.

Polignano is one of my favourite places to get lost in. The old town is so pretty and has a great atmosphere, especially in the evening. The best time to visit is just before sunset.

Places to visit in Polignano a mare:

Lama Monachile
Centro Storico
Punto Panoramico Largo Ardito
Nel blu dipinto di luci

Day 4 – Back to Bari and a day trip to Matera, Basilicata

Whilst in Bari, we decided to visit Matera, in the Basilicata region. Matera, the Sassi area (sassi meaning stones), is a complex of cave dwellings carved into the mountainside. It was evacuated in 1952 due to poor living conditions. Things have obviously changed since then, and there are now luxury hotels and a few restaurants and people have moved back into the area. It is sweltering in the summer, so be careful and stay hydrated.

According to the UNESCO World Heritage Convention, “This is the most outstanding, intact example of a troglodyte settlement in the Mediterranean region, perfectly adapted to its terrain and ecosystem. The first inhabited zone dates from the Palaeolithic, while later settlements illustrate a number of significant stages in human history”.

Day 5 – Our last day in Puglia – Exploring Bari

Finally, our last day in Puglia was spent exploring the vibrant city of Bari. I love the old town, it does get rather busy in the centre due to all the tours, but this can be avoided by visiting during the low season.

I remember the first time we visited Bari, we stumbled upon a woman cooking in the tiniest kitchen with the door wide open and she had this huge pot on the stove full of oil bubbling away as she deep-fried pieces of dough (frittelle baresi) which at the time made me think of the picture books I had as a child of witches cooking up potions in large cauldrons. And the Frittelle? They were delicious, little clouds of joy.

Things to see and do in Bari

Basilica San Nicola
Basilica Cattedrale Metropolitana Primaziale San Sabino
Bari Vecchia – Strada delle Orecchiette
Palazzo Mincuzzi
Pane e Pomodoro beach
Teatro Margherita

5 things you must try whilst in Apulia (Puglia)

Italian food is rooted in a rich history of passing down recipes from generation to generation. Renowned for its simplicity; high-quality, fresh ingredients are a must and there is a huge emphasis on shopping local. These are a few of the things you should try whilst visiting:

Bombette Pugliese, made of rolls of pork meat, filled with a small piece of caciocavallo cheese, salami, salt, pepper and parsley.

Cheese: Puglia is one of Italy’s most famous cheese-producing regions, they produce many different types including caciocavallo, burrata, stracciatella and cacioricotta (goat cheese) among others.

Pasta: the typical pastas of Apulia are made simply from flour and water. Orecchiette (little ears) is a staple of local Apulian food.

Panzerotti: one of the most well-known street foods in Apulia. It looks like a mini calzone and it is filled with mozzarella cheese and tomato sauce seasoned with oregano. Absolutely delicious.

Seafood: It is as fresh as it gets! Take advantage of the fresh, locally-caught seafood.

Hope you enjoy Puglia!

Thank you for reading! Until next time!

A 4-day getaway to Lake Garda

Published on Sep 11, 2023 by Amparo's travels & musingsLeave a comment

It has been a scorching hot summer and just like last year in August; we decided to escape the city heat and spend a few days around Lake Garda.

We wanted to keep this trip relaxed, spending the day by the lake and visiting nearby towns. We based ourselves in Peschiera del Garda and visited the beautiful towns of Lazise, Torri del Benaco and Malcesine. There are so many gorgeous towns around the lake. Have a look at my previous Lake Garda blog post to discover more.

This is what we got up to in Lake Garda!

1. Peschiera del Garda

Get ready to be swept away by the sheer beauty of Peschiera del Garda! Nestled along the southern shores of Lake Garda, we thought this would be the perfect place to base ourselves for our trip. Picture-perfect streets adorned with vibrant flowers and pastel-coloured houses that create a whimsical atmosphere. The crown jewel of the town is its 16th-century fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage site, which stands as a testament to its rich history.

1.1 getting there

We drove but you can get the train from Milano Centrale. You can get a one-way ticket for approx. 12 euros with Trenord which takes around 1 hour and 32 minutes or 23-27 euros with Italo or Frecciarossa which takes just under an hour. You can get your tickets from the station or online via Trainline.

2. Lazise

Lazise is the oldest municipality in Italy and is surrounded by the Scaliger walls (open 24h) which are incredibly well preserved; you can walk along them for free, and it takes around an hour to complete the tour. Overlooking the lake and port is the castle of Lazise which is now a private residence.

Every Wednesday morning until around noon, there’s a local market where you can buy local products such as wine, cheese and olive oil. If you’re around, don’t miss it.

Something that I love about Lake Garda is the amount of cycle paths there are. I think it’s a great way to visit towns whilst enjoying the lake. The cycle path that connects Lazise – Bardolino – Garda, is about 13 km (8 miles). There are kiosks along the way in case you want to buy food or a drink or you can pack your own and enjoy a picnic at one of the small pebble beaches.

If you’re staying in Lazise and want to do a day trip, you can get the ferry boat to Sirmione which is an incredibly beautiful place with a castle and gardens filled with flowers and a little beach area where you can swim in crystal clear water.

2.1 Getting there

From Peschiera del Garda it’s a 20-minute drive. If you’re taking public transport, jump on the 164 bus towards Garda at Peschiera Stazione Ferroviaria and get off at Lazise. You can also get the ferry, just make sure to check the timetables in advance.

3. Torri del Benaco

We stopped here by chance and what a great little town. As it was Ferragosto, there were live bands playing in the streets and lots of little stalls selling jewellery, art and other handmade items, it was wonderful.

3.1 Getting there

Torri del Benaco is just 10 minutes on the bus from Garda and 20 minutes on the ferry. From Lazise to Torri del Benaco it’s 44 minutes on the ferry as it stops in Garda first.

4. Malcesine

Malcesine is a beautiful town with a castle, Castello Scaligero (6€ – open Monday to Friday 09:30 – 18:30) that offers spectacular views of the lake. The cobbled streets and colourful houses of Malcesine reminded me of Bellagio but less crowded. It’s a great place to spend the day. If it gets too warm you can sit at one of the cafes or at a gelateria and enjoy a bit of people watching whilst you cool down.

Another great activity for when it’s not too hot is to cycle along the north-eastern cycle path of Lake Garda. The path is around 40km long, round trip. It is completely flat and suitable for everyone. From south to north it passes through 10 villages, all located in the province of Verona: Castelletto di Brenzone, Marniga, Magugnano, Porto di Brenzone, Assenza di Brenzone, Cassone, Val di Sogno, Malcesine, Campagnola, Navene.

We had dinner at a restaurant called Garden, right on the lake. If you ever find yourself here, order the grilled octopus with caramelised onions, tarali and mashed potato; it was delicious. We saw the most amazing sunset just before the darkest clouds swooped in and the skies roared with thunder and lightning.

From Malcesine, you can get the boat to Riva, Limone and many other towns around the lake.

4.1 Getting there

The drive to Malcesine from Peshiera del Garda took us around an hour. If you’re taking the bus, you can get the bus to Bardolino (visit the town, get some Bardolino wine) and then get the bus from there to Malcesine.

Thank you for reading! For more ideas of places to visit, have a look at my previous posts.

buy me a cup of tea

Bellano, Lake Como

Published on Mar 3, 2023Mar 4, 2023 by Amparo's travels & musingsLeave a comment

Bellano, Lake Como

Bellano is a charming little town located on the eastern shore of Lake Como in the Lombardy region of northern Italy. Known for its beautiful scenery, historic landmarks, and lively cultural events, Bellano is a popular destination for travellers seeking an authentic Italian experience.

One of the town’s main attractions is the Orrido di Bellano, a natural gorge carved by the Pioverna river over centuries. Visitors can explore the gorge on a suspended walkway and admire the rushing waterfalls and towering cliffs.

Tickets are 5.00€ per person.

Another must-see attraction in Bellano is the Chiesa di Santa Maria, a beautiful 12th-century church with a stunning rose window and frescoes depicting scenes from the life of Christ. The church also offers spectacular views of Lake Como and the surrounding mountains.

For outdoor enthusiasts, Bellano offers plenty of opportunities for hiking, cycling, and water sports. The town’s waterfront promenade is perfect for a leisurely stroll or bike ride, while the lake provides a picturesque backdrop for kayaking, swimming, and windsurfing.

In the summer, Bellano hosts several cultural events, including music festivals, art exhibitions, and food and wine tastings. These events showcase the town’s rich history and traditions and provide a wonderful opportunity to experience Italian culture firsthand.

Bellano is a hidden gem that offers a unique blend of natural beauty, history, and culture. Whether you’re looking for adventure, relaxation, or cultural immersion, Bellano is definitely worth a visit.

Have a wonderful day!

Previous blog posts

5 days in Puglia

A 4-day getaway to Lake Garda

Bellano, Lake Como

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Truffles and wine tasting in Le Langhe

Published on Nov 15, 2022 by Amparo's travels & musings2 Comments

It’s truffle season!

White truffle season is from September to December when they grow wild in the forests around Alba. So of course, being in Lombardia, we had to take a trip to Le Langhe in Piedmont. This area is famous for its wines, cheeses, and truffles, particularly the white truffles of Alba, which was our first stop. As soon as we parked the car we headed straight to the International Alba White Truffle Fair which takes place from the 8th of October until the 4th of December.

There are several different activities that you can do at the fair from Wine Tasting Experiences to Truffle Sensory Analysis, Cooking Shows and Fresh Pasta Ateliers. Entry with no additional activities is 5 euros per person. We really enjoyed the fair, I mean, give me truffles on anything and I’m happy.

While all truffles are deeply valued, the white truffle from Alba (a particular species called tuber magnatum) is the most desired for its unforgettable flavour. Its earthy flavour is excellent in risotto, pasta, shaved over fried eggs and on meat.

Wine tasting at Villaggio Narrante in Fontanafredda – Casa E. di Mirafiore

After lunch at the Truffle fair, we headed to Fontanafredda, to the Villagio Narrante for a wine-tasting experience. 120 hectares of bio-natural reserve in Serralunga d’Alba, in the heart of Barolo.

Villagio Narrante was founded thanks to Emanuele Alberto, the son of King Vittorio Emanuele II, with the aim of creating a village with a school, a church, a tobacconist, a baker and a recreational club. A real village which became home to 250 people, all employed by the winery, and where 15 families still live today.

There are several different experiences but we went for the Barolo of Serralungo tour at 40€ per person. A guided tour of Fontanafredda’s historical cellars and tasting of three Barolo wines which have made the winery an icon of this wine throughout the world: Barolo DOCG Serralunga d’Alba, Barolo DOCG Proprietà in Fontanafredda, Barolo DOCG Vigna La Rosa.

The tour was brilliant, it was so interesting to learn about the history of the vineyard. Once you’re done with the tour, you get a 10% off voucher that can be redeemed in-store and before buying any of the wines you can ask to taste them first.

Dinner at Rabayá – Restaurant in Barbaresco

For dinner, we went to Rabayá, a restaurant overlooking rolling hills surrounded by miles of vineyards. The restaurant serves classic Piemontese dishes. It was a brilliant experience and even though we went for a set menu they were happy to replace some of the dishes. The Cocotte was one of my favourite dishes, so simple but so good.

Menu Degustazione

Il vitello Fassone cotto e crudo

(Piedmont veal meat in two ways: raw and cooked)

Cocotte di zucca e fonduta con tartufo nero

(Pumpkin with fonduta cheese and black truffle)

Tajarin ai 30 tuorli al ragù di salsiccia di Bra

(Thin tagliatelle with bra sausage sauce)

Tenera di vitello al Barbaresco

(Veal shoulder in Barbaresco wine sauce)

Dolce misto

(Mix of desserts)

€ 40,00 bevande escluse
(DRINKS NOT INCLUDED)

Breakfast and Aperitivo in Barbaresco

The following day we visited the tower of Barbaresco, which has 360 views of the Langa and Roero area. The weather was so nice, everyone was outside having late breakfast or starting early on their aperitivo.

Tickets to access the Barbaresco tower are 7€ – 8€ per person (adults).

You can check the website here for more information on discounted tickets.

Neive

Considered one of the most beautiful villages in Italy, Neive is a small village with a population of around 3000. It is mostly visited by visitors looking for agritourism. It is a great day out and the views around the village are incredibly beautiful.

For lunch, we went to Ristorante Naevia which I highly recommend. It serves traditional Piemontese dishes and the service was wonderful. I had the tagliarini al ragu di coniglio, it was delicious. You can get a set menu for 45€ per person excluding wine which includes the following:

Menù Tradizionale – Traditional Menù

Carne cruda di Fassona battuta al coltello e maionese alla nocciola.

(Hand-cut Fassona veal tartare and hazelnut mayonnaise)

Tajarin 30 tuorli con ragù di coniglio aromatizzato alle erbe di Langa.

(30 yolk Tajarin with rabbit ragù seasoned with Langa herbs)

Brasato della tradizione con purè di patate.

(Traditional Beef stew with potato purè)

Sfera di “Bonet”

(“Bonet” Sphere)

€ 45 Bevande escluse (Drinks not included)

Getting there

The easiest way to explore this area and to get to Alba, is by car. It took us around 2 hours to get there from Monza.

By train: From Turin, you can take the train (Trenitalia) and be in Alba in around an hour. From Milan, it’s around 3h 30m with a stop in Turin.

It was such a wonderful weekend and I can’t wait to explore more of the area.

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Autumn in Italy – Varese

Published on Nov 8, 2022 by Amparo's travels & musings2 Comments

Visiting Varese

Hi!

How are you?

A couple of days ago, we took a little trip to Varese which is a city in northern Italy known for its art-nouveau villas and parks. It’s about an hour from Milan by train if you’re travelling from Milano Centrale station.

In Varese, we visited the beautiful baroque Estense Palace gardens which used to be the summer residence of Francesco III d’Este, Duke of Modena e Governor of Lombardia. The Duke was so enchanted with Varese that he begged the Empress Maria Theresa of Austria to entrust it to his rule. His request was granted. The gardens behind the villa were inspired by the grounds of the royal residence of Schönbrunn (a must-see if you visit Vienna).

OPENING HOURS

Open: all year
Opening times: variable
Admission: free

After visiting the gardens, we headed to Monte Sacro; a UNESCO world heritage site.

Campo dei Fiori Regional Park – Sacro Monte

Campo dei Fiori Regional Park is home to the 17th-century Sacro Monte di Varese complex. It includes the Via Sacra, a 2km uphill path that passes 14 frescoed chapels on the way to a sanctuary.

At the very top, there’s the small village of Sacro Monte with stunning views over the lake and mountains.

One of my favourite things in the village was the Casa Museo Ludovico Pogliaghi. Pogliaghi was a painter, sculptor, architect and set designer. His most famous piece is the central door of the Duomo di Milano, an incredible work of art not to be missed. You can see the original piece in plaster inside the museum.

OPENING HOURS: From mid-March to mid-November: Saturdays, Sundays and holidays: 10 am – 6 pm // From June to August: Friday night opening: 6.30 pm – 10.30 pm // The museum opens during the week for groups and guided tours, reservation needed.

TICKETS: Full price ticket for the museum € 5 // Combined ticket (you can visit the three main museums in Sacro Monte di Varese and it lasts 6 months) € 12 // Reduced ticket (kids 4-12 years and groups): € 3

Lunch at Hotel Colonne

For lunch, we found a lovely restaurant with stunning views, where we had a six-course tasting menu by Michelin-starred Silvio Battistoni (Executive Chef). The food was excellent and the service was impeccable.

Each dish is a reflection of Chef Battistoni’s creativity, guided by his passion and sensations. Sommelier Nicole Cavalieri works closely with him to choose the accompanying wines. With each course, Chef Battistoni and Sommelier Cavalieri’s creations provide guests with an evening of truly edible delight at Colonne Hotel Restaurant.

— Albergo Colonne