Today is the Festa della Repubblica in Italy (Republic day), it’s a national holiday and celebrates the day when Italians voted to abolish the monarchy in 1946 making Italy a republic.
And a day off work in Italy means another trip of course! We had initially planned on going to Parma but changed our minds last minute and headed over to Como. Glad we did! We found the most amazing jewellery museum/café called Lopez. It’s on Via Vitani, 32 for anyone that wants to go whilst you’re in Como.
As we walked in we were greeted by Maria Grazia and her son and the most amazing collection of antiques, jewellery and vintage fashion. I could not stop smiling, I was in heaven! Everywhere you look there’s a beautiful piece of history. What I loved the most about this place, was that it felt like you were being transported back in time to someone’s dressing room, someone’s lounge, someone’s life! and in a way, it is; it’s Maria Grazia’s life work and you can really tell how much she loves it. I felt so inspired by everything and above all, inspired by Maria Grazia.
Lopez is a family run business and not only do they manage the museum and café but also sell antique jewellery and they host tango lessons as well as conducting seminars on gemology. All of my favourite things in one place!
After a tour of the place we sat down for tea, cake and biscuits. Something that I really miss about London is going to beautiful café’s with my friends and doing things like this! There’s nothing quite like it.
Apart from being slighty worried about accidentally breaking something, it was definitely the best way to spend our afternoon in Como.
I’ll leave the link to their website here so you can have a look if you’re curious. Maria Grazia and her son were incredibly welcoming and everything was perfect. I can’t wait to go back again so I can spend more time looking at everything. Also, so that I can actually do all the touristy things so I can tell you all about it!
Following on from my recent post about Milan, I wanted to share this list of all the restaurants in Milan that currently have Michelin stars (as of 2021). I have included price ranges and the link to each restaurant’s website for ease.
And just in case you haven’t seen my previous posts, here are the links! 🙂
It is only right that my first travel guide on this blog should be about Milan as it is where my life in Italy began! Known for being one of the fashion capitals of the world, hello Milan Fashion Week! and famous for it’s architecture, it’s impossible to think about Milan without automatically thinking about the iconic Duomo di Milano, so that’s where we’ll start!
Day 1
Duomo di Milano
I remember the first time I saw the Duomo; it was as I came out of the station after my first italian lesson. I remember being shocked by how beautiful it was/is and thinking how small I felt standing infront of it. No amount of photos or videos do it justice. It is an impressive building. There are so many intricate details; to think that the construction of the Duomo began in 1386 and the final details were not completed until 1965 is crazy.
You can purchase tickets at the ticket office which is to the right of the Duomo but I would advise you to book them online. Specially during the summer; it gets really hot and you do not want to be standing in a queue in that heat! Also make sure to take something with you to cover your shoulders otherwise you’ll have to buy an extremeley flattering Harry Potter style cloak to go over your “insta-ready” outfit! You’ll find all the details and ticket prices in the link below.
The Duomo Pass Lift at €20 is the best option if you want to see everything. If you’re just looking to go up to the rooftop for photos I would suggest taking the lift unless you’re feeling brave and want to walk up the 251 steps to the roof and then back down again!
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
To the left of the front entrance to the Duomo you’ll see the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. A stunning shopping arcade that oozes Milanese style and wealth. With its beautiful mosaic floors and a magnificent archway into its portico-covered “streets” you’re going to want to spend a little time here and take it all in. In the centre of the gallery you’ll see that the floors are decorated with the coats of arms of Turin, Florence, Milan and Rome. Take a closer look and you might notice tourists spinning on their heels over Turin’s coat of arms; to be more specific, the poor testicles of Turins bull. Apparently it brings good luck to step on the bulls testicles and spin three times! Another thing to look out for is the Leonardo Da Vinci museum which is towards the back of the shopping arcade and worth visiting.
Naviglio Grande
Once you’re done at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele it’s time to head over to Naviglio Grande, it’s one of my favourite spots in Milan, specially for aperitivo or dinner and is absolutely magical at sunset. There are so many nice restaurants around the Navigli area but try to go to a Trattoria, that’s where you’ll find the most authentic food and at great prices.
As for what to order, try one of the local dishes! – Cotoletta alla milanese (breaded veal cutlet pan-fried in butter) – Cassoeula (stewed pork rib chops and sausage with savoy cabbage) – Ossobuco (braised veal shank served with a condiment called gremolata) – Risotto alla Milanese (with saffron and beef marrow) – Busecca (stewed tripe with beans) – Brasato (stewed beef or pork with wine and potatoes)
Famous Milanese cheeses are gorgonzola, mascarpone, taleggio and quartirolo. For me, it’s all about the mascarpone in desserts.
Breakfast in Italy is usually a cornetto and a coffee, very simple but delicious. Some of my favourite cafe’s are Marchesi 1824 which is incredibly beautiful, overlooks the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and has amazing cakes; Pave, which is another amazing place; Orsonero Coffee which always has brilliant reviews; and if you’re a Wes Anderson fan then you need to go to Bar Luce, designed by the man himself. Another cafe that I absolutely love and not just for coffee but also for evening drinks is 10 Corso Como Cafe, it has a great atmosphere and you can also have a little wander of the art gallery and shop whilst you’re there. It’s a hidden gem in the heart of the city.
Bosco Verticale
Not far from 10 Corso Como Cafe is the Piazza Gae Aulenti which leads onto the Bosco Verticale. Bosco Verticale are two stunning residential towers covered in plants, trees and shrubs. In spring the towers and the surrounding park is filled with wild flowers and greenery. A great place to take a break.
Bosco Verticale
Brera
Next stop is Brera! I love Brera, it’s part of the historic centre and the artistic heart of the city. Brera is full of antique shops, art galleries, boutiques and cute cafe’s and restaurants with outdoor seating. On the third Sunday of each month there’s an antiques market called Mercatino di antiquariato e brocantage, in my opinion it’s the best way to start a Sunday followed by brunch at one of the local cafe’s. Whilst you’re here you might want to also stop by the Pinacoteca di Brera and Botanical gardens.
La Pinacoteca di Brera
Brera
Sforzesco Castle Not far from Brera is the Sforzesco castle and Arco della Pace. The castle is open from Tuesday to Sunday 10:00 to 17:30 and you can book your tickets online. Tickets are 5 euros.
The courtyard area is free to access and great for people watching on a Sunday with a coffee in hand; everyone in their Sunday best is out for a walk or having a little picnic on the lawn.
Castello SforzescoArco della pace
Art galleries
There are so many great art musuems and galleries in Milan but currently, top of my list is the Fondazione Prada Milano which I am dying to visit, for anyone that loves architecture or contemporary art this one is a must. Also on my list are Pirelli Hangar Bicocca, Armani Silos, Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna and MUDEC – Museo delle Culture.
I still have so much to see and as I discover new things to do and see I will update these guides. Milan is such a beautiful city by day and even more magical at night so hopefully once the current curfew lifts we can go back to fully enjoying every aspect of the city.
As I get asked quite a bit for advice on travel, I thought I would bring back my blog and share my favourite Italian travel spots as well as travel guides from around the globe.
And of course some foodie favourites! Ok, maybe a lot of foodie favourites.
I moved to Milan last year at the start of the pandemic and was lucky enough to have a couple of weeks of exploring Milan and the surrounding areas before we were all thrown into a never ending episode of lockdowns, self isolation and social awkwardness.
A year later, another mid-pandemic move, this time to Monza and things are starting to settle down a little. As we are now able to travel to other cities within Italy (hurray!!) and news of international leisure travel from the UK opening up soon as well as talks of “green passes” and “vaccine passports” for EU countries, things are looking a little brighter.
So, what do we need to do to prepare for holidays going forward? For those of you that have not yet had the vaccine, proof of a negative Covid test result is required before departure (no more than 48 hours prior to your flight). You will most likely get tested again once you arrive at your destination. Always check each individual country’s rules as these may vary and factor in the extra costs of PCR and rapid antigen tests as well as hotel quarantine costs if required. Check the Foreign Office advice for the most up to date information on your chosen destination. A quick google search will get you onto the right page.
As more people receive the vaccine, rules will most likely change so keep an eye out for updates! In the meantime, you’ll find travel guides, maps, restaurant and cafe reviews and much more here on my blog and on my instagram account.
Amparo's Travels & Musings 