Lago di Garda

The most beautiful towns around Lake Garda. Part 1

Hello from Lake Garda!

This post will be focussing on the West coast of Lake Garda and there will be a “part 2” all about the East coast.

It was Ferragosto here in Italy on the 15th of August, which meant we had a 4 day weekend and the chance to get away from the heat in Monza.

Ferragosto is a public holiday celebrated on the 15th of August in all of Italy. It originates from Feriae Augusti, the festival of emperor Augustus, who made the 1st of August a day of rest after weeks of hard work in the agricultural sector.

We found a nice B&B (Al Marinaio) in a town called Bogliaco in Gargnano on the west coast of Lake Garda. I loved staying in Bogliaco. It’s close enough to the main tourist spots Limone Sul Garda, Gardone Riviera and Riva del Garda without being affected by the hoards of tourists that descend upon the lake during the summer holidays. It’s very relaxed and still feels quite authentic.

We travelled to Lake Garda by motorbike from Monza and it took around an hour and 40 minutes stopping along the way for breakfast. More or less the same if you travel by car.

The closest airports to Lake Garda are: 

  • Verona Catullo (VRN)
  • Milan Bergamo (BGY)
  • Milan Linate (LIN)
  • Venice (VCE)
  • Milan Malpensa (MXP)

Lake Garda is well connected to all the main cities in Northern Italy: it is just over an hour from Milan and Venice, and about half an hour from VeronaBrescia and Trento.

Where to go

  1. Sirmione
  2. Desenzano del Garda
  3. Salò
  4. Gardone Riviera
  5. Gargnano
  6. Limone sul Garda
  7. Riva del Garda

Sirmione

Sirmione is beautiful and looks like a movie set. The highlight of the city, which actually, is also considered the symbol of Sirmione is the Scaligero Castle. A beautiful fortification built after the middle of the fourteenth century on the waters of the lake by the Veronese Della Scala family, from whom it takes its name “Rocca Scaligera”.

The legend of the ghost

According to an ancient local legend, the castle was home to the young aristocratic couple, Ebengardo and his beloved wife Arice.

On a stormy night, the knight Elaberto del Feltrino asked for asylum and was immediately captivated by Arice’s beauty. Determined to have her at all costs, Elaberto went in search of her and attacked her. Arice fought with all her might but Elaberto killed her. At that moment, Ebengardo arrived and, at the sight of his dead wife, drew his weapon and avenged her.

Since then it is said that the ghost of Ebengardo wanders through the rooms of the castle in search of Arice.

Desenzano del Garda

Another beautiful town south of the lake is Desenzano; which is always quite busy, especially in summer but worth visiting. Locals flock to its shores for a day of sunbathing and water sports. If you enjoy stand-up paddle (SUP) this is a great place to do it. The town centre reminds me a little of Venice with its canal and beautiful buildings.

Salò

On our way to Gargnano, we stopped for a quick break in Salò where we stumbled upon an enormous market that had everything you can think of. I was so distracted by everything I didn’t take a single photo of it! Going to a market when you don’t have any luggage space or space on the bike is a dangerous thing, but of course, we made it work. We had to!

Salò is a beautiful town to explore, we didn’t spend much time here as we were only passing through but it’s definitely worth seeing.

Gardone Riviera

On the western shore of Lake Garda, you’ll find Gardone Riviera. The main highlights of the town are the Giardino Botanico Fondazione André Heller which is a botanical garden maintained by artist André Heller and the Vittoriale degli Italiani which is the former residence of the poet Gabriele D’Annunzio.

The Heller Garden, also known as the Giardino Botanico A. Hruska, is such an incredible place to explore and relax. The garden has over 500 species of plants and trees as well as some really interesting sculptures by artists such as Keith Haring and Roy Lichtenstein.

Heller Garden
Vittoriale degli Italiani
Vittoriale degli Italiani
Heller Garden

Gargnano

This is where we stayed during our trip to Lake Garda and it was perfect. Mornings were spent sunbathing by the lake which was just a 2-minute walk from our B&B, whilst afternoons and evenings were spent exploring the nearby towns and Villas. As I mentioned earlier, the town we stayed in is called Bogliaco which is in the comune of Gargnano. It’s very small and peaceful but perfect in terms of location.

Villa Bettoni
Villa Bettoni

Limone sul Garda

Limone sul Garda is the northernmost town on the Brescia side of Lake Garda. The town is nestled in the mountains and a curious fact about its name is that Limone (lit. lemon) does not derive from the cultivation of lemons, but from the Latin limen, or border; this was, in fact, the city on the border with the territory of Trento. It’s by pure coincidence that, centuries later, lemons have become one of the main businesses of the area. 

View from San Rocco church
Limonaia del Castel
View from the church of San Rocco

Riva del Garda

Riva del Garda is on the northern shore of Lake Garda and is very popular with windsurfers due to the strong winds around this area. We arrived just as the sun was setting and it was beautiful. The pastel-coloured hotels from the 60s were very Wes Anderson-esque and the plaza was full of musicians and artists. It felt really special. If you want a birds-eye view of the town you can take the panoramic lift up to the Venetian Bastion. The trip up to the Bastion takes about 3 minutes and a single ticket costs 6€ and return 7€ per person.

Getting around

The best way to see Lake Garda is by hiring a scooter. It will be a lot easier and cheaper to find parking and you’ll be able to navigate all those colourful narrow Italian roads which I love so much. During the summer it can become very busy on the road so a scooter is a great way to escape the summer traffic.

There is of course the option of using public transport however it’s not always as reliable.

Travel tips

Make sure to wear comfortable shoes, you’ll be walking a lot and places like Limone sul Garda are not made for heels.

Make sure to stay hydrated. Summer can get very hot.

Take a little spray bottle to fill up with water so you can mist your face and body to help you cool down. Also helps to take a fan.

Thank you

If you visit Lake Garda tell me what your favourite place to visit was. I can’t wait to explore the rest.

Hope this post has been useful for you. If it has, please give it a like. Thank you very much for reading.

See you soon!

Two days in Florence

Two days in Florence

Welcome to Florence! A city full of charm, romance, art and beautiful architecture. And let’s not forget those amazing sunsets.

When I first visited Florence 4 years ago, I remember thinking it was like an open-air museum, with sculptures and beautiful frescoes in the most unexpected places. I loved it then and I love it even more now. Florence is relatively small compared to other main cities in Italy, making it a great place to add to your itinerary if you’re planning a trip to Tuscany, and it can be easily reached by train from major cities. Everything is within walking distance and you can see all the main sites in a day.

When is the best time to visit Florence?

The best time to visit is early spring or autumn. Summer is unbearably hot and packed with tourists.

You’ll be able to find great deals during off-peak seasons and the weather will be much nicer so you’ll be able to enjoy the city without having to hide from the sun and it will be quieter.

Getting to Florence

We took a direct train from Milan to Santa Maria Novella station in Florence which took just under 2 hours on the fast train. We always prefer spending a little more to get direct trains rather than having to change and risk missing the next train which has happened to me quite a few times as trains are often delayed here in Italy.

Basilica of Santa Maria Novella

Once in Florence, our first stop was the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella; a beautiful 15th-century Dominican church with famous frescoes by artists such as Giotto, Brunelleschi, Masaccio, Michelangelo, Ghirlandaio, Botticelli and Vasari (just to name a few).

Visiting hours: Monday to Thursday and Saturdays from 09:30 am to 5:30 pm. Fridays from 11:00 am to 5:30 pm. Sundays from 1:00 pm to 5:30

Tickets cost €7.50 per person. For more info on reduced and free tickets check the link below.

Make sure to double-check the website as times may vary in spring and winter.

Officina Profumo – Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

From the basilica, it’s about a 2-minute walk to the Officina Profumo – Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. Its roots can be traced back to 1221. In that year, Dominican friars founded the convent of Santa Maria Novella and began to cultivate – among other things – a garden. From that same garden, many centuries of experience in pharmacopoeia and natural preparations started to develop. And in later years that experience would expand to include the worlds of cosmetics, fragrances and wellness products.

The store is incredibly beautiful and worth visiting so don’t miss it!

Just around the corner from where we were staying was the stunning Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore.

Il Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore)

The entrance to the cathedral is free, however, the queues in summer are insanely long so be prepared to wait. If you don’t have a lot of time, I would skip going in. Make sure to check the official website for ticket information if you want to visit the Dome, Bell tower and Baptistery, museum and Santa Reparata.

Giotto’s bell tower

To reach the top you will have to climb up 414 steps, so make sure you’re ready! There’s no lift access.

As advised by the official website for the Cathedral, “The climb is strongly NOT recommended for people with cardiovascular, respiratory diseases, vertigos, claustrophobia, and pregnant women”.

Look at those details! isn’t it gorgeous?
The Baptistery of St. John

Uffizi Gallery

If you have more than a day to visit Florence make sure to visit the Uffizi Gallery. This is where you’ll find the famous ‘Birth of Venus painting’. It’s incredible, not to mention how amazing the statues are on the exterior of the building.

It is one of the most celebrated art museums in all of Italy. Make sure to set aside 2 to 3 hours to visit the museum and book your tickets in advance. You’ll want to get to the museum just before it opens to avoid queuing.

The Uffizi Gallery’s opening hours are 8:15 AM to 06:50 PM from Tuesday to Sunday.

Ponte Vecchio

Probably the most recognizable bridge in all of Italy. Ponte Vecchio was the only bridge across the Arno river in Florence until 1218. The current bridge was rebuilt after a flood in 1345. It was the only bridge in Florence that survived World War II.

Butchers, tanners, and farmers initially occupied the shops that you see on the bridge; the present tenants are jewellers, art dealers, and souvenir sellers.

Something that you might not notice at first whilst wandering around Florence is that there is a corridor that connects the Uffizi Gallery to Palazzo Pitti.

When the Medici family moved from Palazzo Vecchio to Palazzo Pitti, they decided they needed a connecting route from the Uffizi to the Palazzo Pitti on the other side of the Arno that would enable them to keep out of contact with the people they ruled. The result was the Corridoio Vasariano, built in 1565 by Giorgio Vasari and which runs above the little goldsmiths’ shops on the Ponte Vecchio.

Vasariano corridor above the shops

Piazza della Signoria: Palazzo Vecchio – Loggia dei Lanzi

Piazza della Signoria is the main square of Florence and is where you’ll find the Palazzo Vecchio and a replica of Michelangelo’s famous David statue. The original statue can be found at the Accademia Gallery.

Replica of Michelangelo’s David

General Timings: Tuesday to Sunday 9 AM to 6:45 PM. Prior bookings are required for weekend visits.

Piazza della Signoria – Fountain on Neptune

Piazza della Signoria is the liveliest part of Florence and the day we visited, there was a small concert taking place in the Loggia Dei Lanzi, free for everyone to enjoy. It was wonderful; kids danced whilst tourists and locals sat on the ground with their florentine schiacciata (similar to focaccia) sandwiches and enjoyed a cold beer after a long hot summer’s day.

Loggia dei Lanzi open concert
Loggia dei Lanzi

Basilica of Santa Croce

The basilica of Santa Croce is also known as the Pantheon of Florence. This is because the church contains many tombs and funerary monuments of famous Florentines. You’ll find the grave of political leader Niccolò Machiavelli, but also of scientist Galileo Galilei. In addition, a large number of artists and architects are buried here, including Michelangelo and Vasari. Dante has a funerary monument here but he is actually buried in Ravenna where he died in exile.

To visit the basilica make sure to wear appropriate clothing. Shoulders and knees must be covered, this applies to most religious sites in Italy so it’s always best to be prepared.

Palazzo Pitti

Palazzo Pitti

The palazzo is now the largest museum complex in Florence. This is also where you’ll find the beautiful Boboli gardens. I didn’t have time to visit Palazzo Pitti so will update this the next time I visit.

The Palace is divided into four museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes on the ground floor, the Palatine Gallery and the Imperial and Royal Apartments on the first floor, the Gallery of Modern Art and the Museum of Costume and Fashion on the second floor.

For information on tickets and opening hours click the link below.

Piazzale Michelangelo

Beautiful views of the city, the only downside is the number of tourists that flock to the top to watch the sun setting. If you don’t want to deal with the crowds you can also watch the sunset from the Rose Garden which isn’t far from Piazzale Michelangelo. There’s also a little bar and seating area for you to enjoy a drink and relax.

View from Piazzale Michelangelo
View from the Rose Garden

Mercato Nuovo: Fontana del Porcellino

The famous Fontana del Porcellino can be found in the New Market. This bronze statue is supposed to grant wishes to those who place a coin in the boar’s mouth and let it drop, if the coin falls through the grate at the bottom, your wish will come true. Good luck!

Fontana del Porcellino
Mercato Nuovo

Where to eat:

Mercato Centrale

If you’re not quite sure what you fancy eating and want to try a few different things, Mercato Centrale is a great option and has something for everyone.

Galleria Iginio Massari

Opposite the hotel we stayed in was Galleria Iginio Massari, a cafè that had been on my list of places to try for quite some time. The interior design is beautiful and even though I didn’t think Iginio Massari’s famous maritozzo was incredible, the other cakes I tried were really nice. It was also nice to escape the midday sun!

If you’ve never tried it, a Maritozzo is a brioche cut open and filled with whipped cream. Very typical of Rome. Iginio Massari prepares his with whipped cream and crema pasticcera which is custard.

Iginio Massari famous Maritozzo

Trattoria Za’ Za’

For amazing food and a chance to try the famous Florentine steak head to Trattoria Za’ Za’ which is on Piazza del Mercato Centrale. You won’t be disappointed.

Where we stayed

We stayed at the Strozzi Palace hotel which is in a fantastic location just a few minutes away from the cathedral and the Strozzi Palace as well as Piazza della Repubblica. Have a look at the image below. The rooms were very spacious and I loved the decor.

If you’d like to have a look at the hotel click on the link below.

Get lost in the city

Around every corner, there’s something beautiful waiting to be discovered. Don’t forget to wander!

Chiesa e Museo di Orsanmichele
Piazza della Repubblica
Palazzo Strozzi
Gucci Garden

Hope you enjoyed this post! If you enjoyed it, give it a like or thumbs up. Thanks for reading! Until next time!

Parma

Thinking about visiting Parma?

Home of Parma ham and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese; Parma is a city that prides itself on its local produce.

Something that I learnt whilst researching Parma is that Parmigiano Reggiano can only be produced in the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Mantua (on the right bank of the Po river) and Bologna (on the left bank of the Reno river), in compliance with strict standards. Since 1996 the name Parmigiano Reggiano has been recognised in the European Union as a PDO (Protected Designation of Origin).

And for all my fellow lactose intolerant friends, Parmigiano Reggiano is naturally lactose-free so feel free to go nuts!!

Photo by Castorly Stock on Pexels.com
Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

Parma is also home to the famous brand Barilla. In 1877, Pietro Barilla Senior opened a small bread and pasta shop in the heart of Parma which has grown into an international food group that exports its products to over 100 countries.

How to get to Parma

We took the train from Milano Lambrate direct to Parma and it cost 45€ for two adult return tickets. It was so easy and only took an hour and 30 minutes to get there. Once we arrived in Parma it was a 15-minute walk to the centre.

As always, I bought the tickets using the Omio app. Sign up using my referral link and we’ll both get 10€ off towards our next booking! https://www.omio.com/refer-a-friend?ic=ampara7d3k7nhttps://www.omio.com/refer-a-friend?ic=ampara7d3k7n

Parma is a great city to explore on foot; if you start feeling tired take advantage of the many cafés and bars dotted around the city and enjoy a bit of people-watching.

What to see and do

Duomo di Parma

Also known as the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta; it is open every day from 10:00 until 18:00 and is free to visit and has the most beautiful interiors.

Baptistery

The Baptistery is open every day from 10:00 until 18:00 and tickets are €12 per person. I don’t know what it is about this building but I think it’s so pretty and it reminded me of the tower of Pisa.

Palazzo Pillota

Located between Piazzale della Pace and the Lungoparma in the historical centre of Parma; its name comes from the game of pelota played at one time by Spanish soldiers stationed in Parma. The museum is great and a nice place to escape the heat in the summer. We spent a couple of hours here and the theatre was our favourite thing. It’s open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:30 until 18:30.

Ducal Palace and Parco Ducale

Lunch

For lunch we went to Trattoria Corrieri which so many people had recommended and we ordered a plate of parma ham and other cured meats with gnocco fritto; which is like a puffed up pizza dough square. Absolutely delicious! We also ordered a cheese board; so good! And for our main dish the ravioli, which I found very bland so won’t be recommending. We were so full we skipped desert.

Streets of Parma

After visiting the main sites and having lunch, we went on a short walk around the city as we were so full and still had some time before our train back to Monza. It’s such a lovely city and we really enjoyed walking around without running into massive crowds of tourists.

My favourite photo!

If you enjoyed this, have a look at my previous posts and give them a like.

Hope you all have a wonderful week!

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All things Nice

A weekend spent wandering around Nice

There’s a reason why artists such as Matisse, Chagall, Picasso, and Renoir fell in love with Nice.

We visited Nice last month and the weather was perfect. Of course, being February, the sea was absolutley freezing but that didn’t stop people from running and jumping in for a quick swim! And let’s not forget how amazing french boulangeries are. Is there anything better than the smell of freshly baked bread in the morning? Actually yes, croissants straight out of the oven… just the thought makes me want to get on a plane to France. Honestly, how can you not fall in love with this place!

Is there anything better than breathing in the salty sea air and dipping your feet in the cold sea after a long walk around the city? If you walk along the Promenade des Anglais towards the #ILoveNice sign you’ll find yourself on the Rauba Capeu Sundial at the foot of Castle Hill (Colline du Chateau). This is a great place from which to start your trip.

Take the stairs across the road from the #ILoveNice sign up to the Bellanda Tower and you’ll be able to enjoy beautiful views of the city and French Riviera coastline. At the very top, from Castle Hill, you’ll be able to see the old town, the port and beyond.

From Castle Hill you can also see the cours Saleya Market. Head over to the market and try their Pissaladiere (onion tart – really good) or you can try Socca which is a pancake made with chickpea flour. And when in France… eat all the bread, pastries and cakes because life is too short and they’re the best.

Time to wander around vieux Nice! I love how charming this part of the city is, I could get lost here for hours. If you’re looking for unique gifts there are so many beautiful boutiques around here. One of my favourite shops was; Le Palais d’Osier, which sells wicker baskets, bags, chairs…I wanted to buy everything! And the Parapluies shop which is just beautiful to look at.

There’s no shortage of beautiful buildings and streets in Nice. Make sure to visit the St Nicholas Russian Orthodox Cathedral, it is incredibly beautiful.

And the most exciting part? The CARNIVAL! We were lucky enough to see some of the structures built for the carnival and even got a little sneak peek at some of the performances. The Nice Carnival is one of the world’s major carnival events, alongside the Brazilian Carnival, Venetian Carnival, and Mardi Gras in New Orleans. It’s held annually in February and sometimes early March in Nice. If you want to see more of the carnival, I’ll leave the link to the main website here.

I will defintely be visiting again, absolutely loved it.

If you are planning on travelling to Nice for more than a weekend, I recommend visiting Menton and Cannes which are quite easy to get to. Menton is 37 minutes on the train and Cannes is 30 minutes away.

Moving around Nice is really easy, you can reach all sites on foot which also means you get to really experience and fully immerse yourself in Nice life. If you feel tired, there is a little train that takes you on a tour of Vieux Nice. It’s called the mini-train tour and lasts around 30 minutes.

The mini-trains leave every 30 minutes from Promenade des Anglais (in front of Hotel Le Meridien). Make sure to take cash with you, it’s around 10 euros per person.

I hope you enjoyed this post, would love to know what you think. And if you have already been to Nice, would love to know what your favourite places were.

Venice, the floating city

400 bridges connecting 118 little islands to form the beautiful city of Venice. No wonder it’s known as the city of bridges! Every step, every turn leads to another bridge. How long do you think it would take to cross them all?

Venice was one of our last stops on our month-long road trip across Italy last year. It’s as if Venice knew and it welcomed us with the darkest of storms. We hid in a nearby cafe and almost gave up. People were running trying to find shelter; street vendors replaced selfie sticks with umbrellas and the plastic ponchos were out in full force. This was not your typical storm… just as quickly as it had started it disappeared and with that most of the tourists as well! 

There are so many beautiful places to see and I will list them below, but the most important thing when visiting Venice is to wander. Forget about maps and itineraries for an hour or two and just wander the streets of Venice. I recently came across a quote by Ella Maillart that says ‘One travels to run away from routine, that dreadful routine that kills all imagination and all our capacity for enthusiasm’. Enjoy getting lost for a little while.

Now, if you are limited on time and only have a day to explore the city, here are my top places to visit.

Piazza San Marco

This is the heart of Venice and where you will find some of the most famous buildings in the city.

Campanile di San Marco

First stop, Campanile di San Marco. The views from the top are incredible and can be reached via the lift.

Basilica di San Marco

Next stop is St. Mark’s Basilica. This is probably one of the most beautiful buildings I have ever seen. More than 8000 square metres of mosaic cover the walls, vaults and cupolas of the Basilica. The extensive use of gold in the background of the mosaics and the ever changing light that streams through the windows of the Basilica make it an incredible sight. Make sure to head up to the balcony for a brilliant view of the Piazza San Marco and to see the stunning sculptures that decorate the Basilica.

Doge’s Palace

Once you’re done at the Basilica head over to the Doge’s Palace but be warned the queues to enter are quite something so get there early.

Doge’s Palace

Bridge of Sighs

Next to the Doge’s Palace you will find the Bridge of Sighs which got its name from the cries and lamentations of prisoners who were transported from the Doge’s Palaces’ criminal courts to the prison just over the bridge.

Stroll along Riva degli Schiavoni and enjoy some lunch or a ‘spuntino’ whilst you enjoy the view of the waterfront.

Ponte di Rialto

Now let’s head over to Rialto Bridge, grab a gelato on your way there at Gelatoteca Suso. Ice cream here is delicious! The Rialto Bridge is especially beautiful at sunset so you might want to come back later but be prepared for large crowds. 

If you like visiting churches you came to the right city, there are so many to choose from and you will find dozens along your way. 

Murano and Burano

If you still have time or have more than one day, make sure to visit the islands of Murano and Burano. You can access them via water bus from Piazza San Marco as well as from Fondamente Nove.

The island of Murano, is best known for its glass and you can take a tour of one of the factories as well as go to the Museo del Vetro (glass museum). When buying glass items in Venice make sure it has the official ‘Vetro Murano Artistico’ trademark, always try to support local businesses.

Burano

Next is Burano which you will have probably seen a million times on social media and for good reason. The colourful fishing village of Burano is famous for its beautiful lace but more than anything you will have heard about Burano due to its incredibly colourful houses. The origin of the colourful houses is unknown but some say it was to help fishermen returning from the sea. Due to the heavy fog, fishermen had trouble recognising their homes and so they decided to paint them with different colours which I guess makes sense but I’m not sure how true this is. Either way, enjoy this colourful and cheerful island and make sure to eat at one of the local fish restaurants.

Getting around Venice

Venice is small enough for you to be able to walk to all the main attractions and if you’re tired you can take a Vaporetto (water bus) which is always fun.

Where to buy tickets

AVM/Actv tickets can be purchased from the following sales channels:
•    Venezia Unica point of sale throughout the historic center of Venice and on the mainland 
•    authorized retailers
•    automatic ticketing machines at the main AVM/Actv public transport arrival terminals and waterbus stops
•    AVM Venezia Official App 
•    on line on www.veneziaunica.it
•    on board waterborne services 

If the weather is bad or your time in Venice is very limited, then you can buy a ticket valid for 75 minutes for €7,50 or a time-based travel card which allows free circulation on all the ACTV vaporetto lines around the city and to the lagoon islands, as well as free circulation on the urban Mestre and Lido land-bus and tram lines (except for travel with origin or destination at Marco Polo airport – see the official ACTV fares for full details) and use of the People Mover:

  • 20,00 € – 1 DAY TRAVELCARD
  • 30,00 € – 2 DAYS TRAVELCARD
  • 40,00 € – 3 DAYS TRAVELCARD
  • 60,00 € – 7 DAYS TRAVELCARD

Where to store your luggage

There are luggage facilities at the three main transport hubs in Venice. You’ll see the sign Deposito Bagagli which are the luggage storage offices. Piazzale Roma – across from the ACTV office and next to the People Mover station.

Enjoy your trip to Venice!

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Have an amazing day!