Tag: weekend trips

A 4-day getaway to Lake Garda

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It has been a scorching hot summer and just like last year in August; we decided to escape the city heat and spend a few days around Lake Garda.

We wanted to keep this trip relaxed, spending the day by the lake and visiting nearby towns. We based ourselves in Peschiera del Garda and visited the beautiful towns of Lazise, Torri del Benaco and Malcesine. There are so many gorgeous towns around the lake. Have a look at my previous Lake Garda blog post to discover more.

This is what we got up to in Lake Garda!

1. Peschiera del Garda

Get ready to be swept away by the sheer beauty of Peschiera del Garda! Nestled along the southern shores of Lake Garda, we thought this would be the perfect place to base ourselves for our trip. Picture-perfect streets adorned with vibrant flowers and pastel-coloured houses that create a whimsical atmosphere. The crown jewel of the town is its 16th-century fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage site, which stands as a testament to its rich history.

1.1 getting there

We drove but you can get the train from Milano Centrale. You can get a one-way ticket for approx. 12 euros with Trenord which takes around 1 hour and 32 minutes or 23-27 euros with Italo or Frecciarossa which takes just under an hour. You can get your tickets from the station or online via Trainline.

2. Lazise

Lazise is the oldest municipality in Italy and is surrounded by the Scaliger walls (open 24h) which are incredibly well preserved; you can walk along them for free, and it takes around an hour to complete the tour. Overlooking the lake and port is the castle of Lazise which is now a private residence.

Every Wednesday morning until around noon, there’s a local market where you can buy local products such as wine, cheese and olive oil. If you’re around, don’t miss it.

Something that I love about Lake Garda is the amount of cycle paths there are. I think it’s a great way to visit towns whilst enjoying the lake. The cycle path that connects Lazise – Bardolino – Garda, is about 13 km (8 miles). There are kiosks along the way in case you want to buy food or a drink or you can pack your own and enjoy a picnic at one of the small pebble beaches.

If you’re staying in Lazise and want to do a day trip, you can get the ferry boat to Sirmione which is an incredibly beautiful place with a castle and gardens filled with flowers and a little beach area where you can swim in crystal clear water.

2.1 Getting there

From Peschiera del Garda it’s a 20-minute drive. If you’re taking public transport, jump on the 164 bus towards Garda at Peschiera Stazione Ferroviaria and get off at Lazise. You can also get the ferry, just make sure to check the timetables in advance.

3. Torri del Benaco

We stopped here by chance and what a great little town. As it was Ferragosto, there were live bands playing in the streets and lots of little stalls selling jewellery, art and other handmade items, it was wonderful.

Monumento al’Alpino

3.1 Getting there

Torri del Benaco is just 10 minutes on the bus from Garda and 20 minutes on the ferry. From Lazise to Torri del Benaco it’s 44 minutes on the ferry as it stops in Garda first.

4. Malcesine

Malcesine is a beautiful town with a castle, Castello Scaligero (6€ – open Monday to Friday 09:30 – 18:30) that offers spectacular views of the lake. The cobbled streets and colourful houses of Malcesine reminded me of Bellagio but less crowded. It’s a great place to spend the day. If it gets too warm you can sit at one of the cafes or at a gelateria and enjoy a bit of people watching whilst you cool down.

Another great activity for when it’s not too hot is to cycle along the north-eastern cycle path of Lake Garda. The path is around 40km long, round trip. It is completely flat and suitable for everyone. From south to north it passes through 10 villages, all located in the province of Verona: Castelletto di Brenzone, Marniga, Magugnano, Porto di Brenzone, Assenza di Brenzone, Cassone, Val di Sogno, Malcesine, Campagnola, Navene.

We had dinner at a restaurant called Garden, right on the lake. If you ever find yourself here, order the grilled octopus with caramelised onions, tarali and mashed potato; it was delicious. We saw the most amazing sunset just before the darkest clouds swooped in and the skies roared with thunder and lightning.

From Malcesine, you can get the boat to Riva, Limone and many other towns around the lake.

4.1 Getting there

The drive to Malcesine from Peshiera del Garda took us around an hour. If you’re taking the bus, you can get the bus to Bardolino (visit the town, get some Bardolino wine) and then get the bus from there to Malcesine.

Thank you for reading! For more ideas of places to visit, have a look at my previous posts.

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Truffles and wine tasting in Le Langhe

Published on by Amparo's travels & musings2 Comments

It’s truffle season!

White truffle season is from September to December when they grow wild in the forests around Alba. So of course, being in Lombardia, we had to take a trip to Le Langhe in Piedmont. This area is famous for its wines, cheeses, and truffles, particularly the white truffles of Alba, which was our first stop. As soon as we parked the car we headed straight to the International Alba White Truffle Fair which takes place from the 8th of October until the 4th of December.

There are several different activities that you can do at the fair from Wine Tasting Experiences to Truffle Sensory Analysis, Cooking Shows and Fresh Pasta Ateliers. Entry with no additional activities is 5 euros per person. We really enjoyed the fair, I mean, give me truffles on anything and I’m happy.

While all truffles are deeply valued, the white truffle from Alba (a particular species called tuber magnatum) is the most desired for its unforgettable flavour. Its earthy flavour is excellent in risotto, pasta, shaved over fried eggs and on meat.

Wine tasting at Villaggio Narrante in Fontanafredda – Casa E. di Mirafiore

After lunch at the Truffle fair, we headed to Fontanafredda, to the Villagio Narrante for a wine-tasting experience. 120 hectares of bio-natural reserve in Serralunga d’Alba, in the heart of Barolo.

Villagio Narrante was founded thanks to Emanuele Alberto, the son of King Vittorio Emanuele II, with the aim of creating a village with a school, a church, a tobacconist, a baker and a recreational club. A real village which became home to 250 people, all employed by the winery, and where 15 families still live today.

There are several different experiences but we went for the Barolo of Serralungo tour at 40€ per person. A guided tour of Fontanafredda’s historical cellars and tasting of three Barolo wines which have made the winery an icon of this wine throughout the world: Barolo DOCG Serralunga d’Alba, Barolo DOCG Proprietà in Fontanafredda, Barolo DOCG Vigna La Rosa.

The tour was brilliant, it was so interesting to learn about the history of the vineyard. Once you’re done with the tour, you get a 10% off voucher that can be redeemed in-store and before buying any of the wines you can ask to taste them first.

Dinner at Rabayá – Restaurant in Barbaresco

For dinner, we went to Rabayá, a restaurant overlooking rolling hills surrounded by miles of vineyards. The restaurant serves classic Piemontese dishes. It was a brilliant experience and even though we went for a set menu they were happy to replace some of the dishes. The Cocotte was one of my favourite dishes, so simple but so good.

Menu Degustazione


Il vitello Fassone cotto e crudo

(Piedmont veal meat in two ways: raw and cooked)

Cocotte di zucca e fonduta con tartufo nero

(Pumpkin with fonduta cheese and black truffle)

Tajarin ai 30 tuorli al ragù di salsiccia di Bra

(Thin tagliatelle with bra sausage sauce)

Tenera di vitello al Barbaresco

(Veal shoulder in Barbaresco wine sauce)

Dolce misto

(Mix of desserts)

€ 40,00 bevande escluse
(DRINKS NOT INCLUDED)

Breakfast and Aperitivo in Barbaresco

The following day we visited the tower of Barbaresco, which has 360 views of the Langa and Roero area. The weather was so nice, everyone was outside having late breakfast or starting early on their aperitivo.

Tickets to access the Barbaresco tower are 7€ – 8€ per person (adults).

You can check the website here for more information on discounted tickets.

Neive

Considered one of the most beautiful villages in Italy, Neive is a small village with a population of around 3000. It is mostly visited by visitors looking for agritourism. It is a great day out and the views around the village are incredibly beautiful.

For lunch, we went to Ristorante Naevia which I highly recommend. It serves traditional Piemontese dishes and the service was wonderful. I had the tagliarini al ragu di coniglio, it was delicious. You can get a set menu for 45€ per person excluding wine which includes the following:

Menù Tradizionale – Traditional Menù

Carne cruda di Fassona battuta al coltello e maionese alla nocciola.

(Hand-cut Fassona veal tartare and hazelnut mayonnaise)

Tajarin 30 tuorli con ragù di coniglio aromatizzato alle erbe di Langa.

(30 yolk Tajarin with rabbit ragù seasoned with Langa herbs)

Brasato della tradizione con purè di patate.

(Traditional Beef stew with potato purè)

Sfera di “Bonet”

(“Bonet” Sphere)

€ 45 Bevande escluse (Drinks not included)

Getting there

The easiest way to explore this area and to get to Alba, is by car. It took us around 2 hours to get there from Monza.

By train: From Turin, you can take the train (Trenitalia) and be in Alba in around an hour. From Milan, it’s around 3h 30m with a stop in Turin.

It was such a wonderful weekend and I can’t wait to explore more of the area.

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Autumn in Italy – Varese

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Visiting Varese

Hi!

How are you?

A couple of days ago, we took a little trip to Varese which is a city in northern Italy known for its art-nouveau villas and parks. It’s about an hour from Milan by train if you’re travelling from Milano Centrale station.

In Varese, we visited the beautiful baroque Estense Palace gardens which used to be the summer residence of Francesco III d’Este, Duke of Modena e Governor of Lombardia. The Duke was so enchanted with Varese that he begged the Empress Maria Theresa of Austria to entrust it to his rule. His request was granted. The gardens behind the villa were inspired by the grounds of the royal residence of Schönbrunn (a must-see if you visit Vienna).

OPENING HOURS

Open: all year
Opening times: variable
Admission: free

After visiting the gardens, we headed to Monte Sacro; a UNESCO world heritage site.

Campo dei Fiori Regional Park – Sacro Monte

Campo dei Fiori Regional Park is home to the 17th-century Sacro Monte di Varese complex. It includes the Via Sacra, a 2km uphill path that passes 14 frescoed chapels on the way to a sanctuary.

At the very top, there’s the small village of Sacro Monte with stunning views over the lake and mountains.

One of my favourite things in the village was the Casa Museo Ludovico Pogliaghi. Pogliaghi was a painter, sculptor, architect and set designer. His most famous piece is the central door of the Duomo di Milano, an incredible work of art not to be missed. You can see the original piece in plaster inside the museum.

Duomo di Milano door

OPENING HOURS: From mid-March to mid-November: Saturdays, Sundays and holidays: 10 am – 6 pm  //  From June to August: Friday night opening: 6.30 pm – 10.30 pm  // The museum opens during the week for groups and guided tours, reservation needed.

TICKETS: Full price ticket for the museum € 5 // Combined ticket (you can visit the three main museums in Sacro Monte di Varese and it lasts 6 months) € 12 // Reduced ticket (kids 4-12 years and groups): € 3

Lunch at Hotel Colonne

For lunch, we found a lovely restaurant with stunning views, where we had a six-course tasting menu by Michelin-starred Silvio Battistoni (Executive Chef). The food was excellent and the service was impeccable.

Each dish is a reflection of Chef Battistoni’s creativity, guided by his passion and sensations. Sommelier Nicole Cavalieri works closely with him to choose the accompanying wines. With each course, Chef Battistoni and Sommelier Cavalieri’s creations provide guests with an evening of truly edible delight at Colonne Hotel Restaurant.

— Albergo Colonne

After an amazing lunch, we rolled out of the restaurant and did a little more exploring before heading home as it was still raining.

Here are a few more photos from Sacro Monte.

Hope you enjoyed this post and found it helpful.

Until next time!

From Rome with love

Published on by Amparo's travels & musings6 Comments

A four-day itinerary in Rome

The first time I visited Rome was in 2017 and I will never forget that trip. It was, after all, my first time in Italy! It was everything I had imagined it to be and more. Rome is such an incredible and breathtaking city. I still remember the first time I saw the Colosseum and Trevi fountain, it was such a dream come true. Who would have thought that a few years later I would be living in Italy? When my parents came to visit me for the first time, I had to take them to Rome. Visiting the city with my parents was even more special, even more so, as it was their first trip after the pandemic. I recently put together this itinerary for someone that was visiting the city and thought I would share it with you all.

Day 1

The Colosseum

If you think of Rome, what’s the first thing that pops into your head? you probably instantly think of the colosseum, so that’s where we’ll start.

It’s best to book your tickets in advance as queues can get pretty long pretty quick – you can get a combined ticket that also includes the Roman Forum. For more ticket information click here.

Best spots to take photos without all the tourists? just walk towards the metro station for the colosseum and then walk up the steps (be careful here, there are a lot of people trying to sell tourists fake tickets and other misc. items) keep walking and you’ll see a bridge where you can take some photos from and as you cross the bridge to the right there’s a small public park called Giardinetto del Monte Oppio. You can get some amazing photos from there.

After visiting the Colosseum head across the road to the Roman Forum, this was the heart of the ancient city and one of the most important sites in Rome – entry is included in the Colosseum tickets.

Explore the area – there are so many ruins and monuments around the colosseum to see:

The altar of the Fatherland: The Victor Emmanuel II National Monument, also known as Vittoriano or Altare della Patria, is a large national monument built between 1885 and 1935 to honour Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of a unified Italy, in Rome, Italy. For 360° views of Rome, make your way to the Ascensori Panoramici (Panoramic lift). To reach the platform you will need to walk to the back of the building (12€ per person open until 19:30 last lift going up at 18:30/18:45)

The mouth of Truth (Bocca della Verità) – a popular attraction due to the myth attached to it (if you tell a lie it’ll bite your hand off) and an iconic movie moment (made famous by Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck in the film, Roman Holiday). It’s free admission and open from 09:30 – 17:50. Located in the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin.

From the movie “Roman holiday”

Explore the area of Trastevere and head to Gianicolo Hill for the best view over Rome at sunset. From the belvedere, you’ll be able to see the Pantheon, the Altare alla Patria, Castel Sant’Angelo and St. Peter’s Basilica.

Day 2

Wake up early and head over to the Trevi Fountain to avoid the crowds, once you’re done here head over to La Citta di acqua (which translates as the city of water) – the ancient ruins under the fountain. It’s called Area archeologica – vicus caprarius.

Don’t miss out on seeing the Trevi fountain also at night as it’s even more special all lit up.

Next, head over to the Pantheon – Open from 09:00 until 18:45.

The Pantheon is a former Roman temple that later became a catholic church. Almost two thousand years after it was built, the Pantheon’s dome is still the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome. It is also one of the best-preserved ancient Roman buildings in existence.

Free admission from Monday to Friday. For weekends you’ll need to book at least one day in advance.

ticket information

If you need a break, near the Pantheon you’ll find the best gelato in Rome at Giolitti – it’s one of my favourites. I always get a scoop of hazelnut gelato with a scoop of chocolate topped with fresh cream. The pastries look amazing too, but I haven’t had the chance to try them. Might just have to take a little trip down to Rome!

Once you’re done at the Pantheon, head over to Piazza Navona – a beautiful square from the 1st century A.D. with lots of bars, cafés, places to eat and the beautiful Neptune Fountain.

Largo di Torre Argentina is a square where you’ll find the ruins of four Roman Republican temples and the remains of Pompey’s Theatre. It is in the ancient Campus Martius.

Julius Caesar was assassinated in the Curia of Pompey, and the spot where he is believed to have been assassinated is in the square.

For any cat lovers, there is also a cat sanctuary here.

Day 3

Start the day with a visit to The Vatican museum – make sure to book in advance to avoid queues. I recommend doing a self-guided tour with audio guides rather than going with a guided group as it gives you a little more freedom and you won’t see anything extra on a guided tour. I have been to the Vatican twice and enjoyed the self-guided tour much more than the group one.

The Vatican Museum is quite large so you will probably spend a lot of time there. The Sistine chapel and these incredible corridors full of paintings are spectacular. For ticket information click on the link below.

ticket information

If you can’t find tickets on the main website check out tiqets.com or getyourguide.com

Once you’re done at the Vatican Museum head over to the Museo Nazionale Castel st Angelo – Open Tuesday to Sunday, 09:00 until 19:00. Don’t buy tickets from anyone outside of the Castle. Due to the number of tourists, it’s always advisable to book online in advance. Tickets are 13€ per person.

Next, head over to St. Peter’s Basilica – Free entry (open from 07:00 – 18:30) don’t forget to take advantage of the chance to go up to the Dome of the cathedral. From here you’ll be able to see the Piazza San Pietro. You can walk up the steps (551 steps) or pay a little extra and take the lift halfway. During October, the pope holds a service every Wednesday at 12:00. When visiting, shoulders and knees should be covered.

Day 4

The Spanish Steps: you’ll find the most famous steps in Rome between the Piazza di Spagna at the base and Piazza Trinità dei Monti, dominated by the Trinità dei Monti church, at the top. On this Piazza di Spagna, you can also find a fountain by Pietro Bernini, called ‘Fontana della Barcaccia’. This literally means ‘Fountain of the ugly boat’. This does not refer to the sculpture being ugly, but to the story that the river Tiber flooded in 1598 and stranded the ugly little boat on this spot. That was Bernini’s inspiration. If the French had had their way, there would have also been a large statue of the French king Louis XII near the steps. But the pope at the time would not allow that, leading to construction being delayed. Nowadays, the area surrounding Piazza di Spagna is a luxurious shopping area, with the street Via Condotti being the highlight.

Villa Borghese (20€ per person, book in advance, check tiqets.com and getyourguide.com) Open Tuesday to Sunday 09:00 until 19:00 (Thursday closes at 21:00);

A gorgeous villa and museum and one of the largest parks in Rome. The ‘Galleria Borghese’ can also be found in the park. The gallery contains sculptures and paintings by artists such as Caravaggio, Rubens, Bernini and Leonardo da Vinci.

Another great scenic viewpoint of Rome is from Terrazza Viale del Belvedere which is what you can see below. It’s also a lot less crowded.

Terrazza Viale del Belvedere

Where to eat:

Near the Pantheon – Antica Trattoria da Pietro al Pantheon

Osteria da Fortunata – a 4-minute walk from Piazza Navona

MAMI Pizza – near Piazza Navona

Tonnarello restaurant – Piazza della Scala. Get yourself a cestino (basket) to start (fried little rice croquettes with different fillings) and the carbonara is a must.

On-the-go food: Bonci just outside the Mercato Centrale Roma.

Dessert:

Said: a restaurant housed in a former chocolate factory, what more is there to say? If you’ve tried the one in London (Soho) this is the original. A chocoholic’s dream.

Chocolate Boutique is open from Tuesday to Saturday 10:00 am to 20:00pm and on Sunday from 11:00am to 20:00pm.

Chocolate Coffee Shop Bistrò Restaurant is open from Tuesday to Thursday 17:00pm to 01:00 am, Friday and Saturday from 16:00pm to 02:00am and Sunday from 12:00pm to 20:00pm. Monday closed.

Giolitti: Oldest ice cream parlour in Rome and so good. Address: Via Uffici del Vicario, 40 it’s just a few minutes from the Pantheon. Open from 07:00am until 1:30am

Pompi: They specialise in Tiramisu, and you can enjoy the classic Tiramisu, but I urge you to try their pistachio Tiramisu or the banana and chocolate Tiramisu. The Hazelnut (nocciola in Italian) flavour is also delicious. There are quite a few in Rome so just type it into google.

Getting around:

You can visit everything on foot but if you want a break from walking there’s the metro which has three lines and is relatively easy to use. Buses are very unreliable.

If it’s something that might interest you; the Roma pass 48 hours card is 32€ per person. – https://www.romapass.it/en/home/

You can buy it from the link above or at museum tourist info points as well as ATAC (subway ticket office).

What’s included:

  • First museum/archaeological site/experience included
  • Free use of the city’s public transport network, for the entire validity of the card
  • Discount and special prices for exhibitions, attractions and tourist services
  • Dedicated booking arrangements for museums/archaeological sites
  • Experience with AR viewer: Circo Maximo Experience
  • Free access to toilets services of P.Stop network
  • Valid 48 hours from the first validation at museums and public transport

Free entry museums: Accademia Nazionale di San Luca, Museo Carlo Bilotti a Villa Borghese, Museo della Repubblica Romana e della memoria garibaldina, Museo delle Mura, Museo di Casal de’ Pazzi, Museo di Scultura Antica Giovanni Barracco, Museo Napoleonico, Museo Pietro Canonica a Villa Borghese, Villa di Massenzio.

If you’ve reached the end of this post, thank you for reading and I hope this has helped you plan your trip to Rome. Have a wonderful trip!

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A day trip to Bergamo Alta

Published on by Amparo's travels & musings1 Comment

Hello from beautiful Bergamo!

I love visiting Bergamo, specially Città Alta (the upper city). It’s a charming medieval walled city full of winding roads and beautiful architecture. Despite how busy it can get during the weekend, it still feels quite peaceful.

Usually, to get to città alta we would take the funicular from Bergamo Città Bassa (lower city); but this weekend, as the queue for the funicular was so long, we decided to walk. If you plan on doing this, wear comfortable shoes! I thought my sandals would be fine but because of the material my foot kept sliding all over the place and I had to walk at a snails pace!! You see, città alta is on a hill and walking up, there are parts that are REALLY steep, BUT the views are worth it. It’s like something out of a movie.

I wouldn’t advise walking up to Città Alta in the middle of summer as it is way too hot, so definitely take the funicular; but during spring and autumn it’s perfect. Something that I absolutely love about this time of year in Italy, is that jasmine flowers are in full bloom and they smell incredible. Walking up to the old town they were everywhere and I think that’s what kept me going. Make sure to take breaks to take photos and stay hydrated!!

Our first stop was the Piazza Vecchia – the heart of Città Alta!

Here, you’ll find restaurants, café’s and some of the most important buildings in Bergamo.

Piazza Vecchia – Palazzo della ragione
Piazza Vecchia in the evening seen from the other side

If you walk to the back of Piazza Vecchia, past the arches you will find the beautiful Cappella Colleoni and right next to it the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, which is definitely worth visiting. The beautiful and ornate interiors of the basilica were designed by Lorenzo Lotto, mostly known for his perceptive portraits and mystical paintings of religious subjects.

Capella Colleoni – Piazza del Duomo
Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore

To the left of the basilica is the Duomo, also known as the Cattedrale di Sant’Alessandro; and opposite the Duomo you will see the Battistero di Bergamo.

Duomo – Cattedrale di Sant’Alessandro
Battistero di Bergamo

Make your way back to the funicular for Upper Bergamo and go up Sant’Eufemia hill, it’s a 6 – 7 minute walk from the Piazza Duomo up to the Rocca Fortress which has some amazing views. Best place to enjoy the sunset in my opinion.

View from the Rocca Fortress in winter

Another great spot, not just for photos but for some great food is San Vigilio Hill. You can take the funicular up there and it only takes a few minutes.

Funicular to San Vigilio

Once you’re done in San Vigilio you can take the next funicular down to Città Alta and continue exploring the medieval town through its endless maze of cobblestone roads. Also, don’t miss the panoramic views from the Punto Panoramico di Colle Aperto, you can see the Orto Botànico from here as well as the mountains.

Comune di Bergamo – Piazza della Cittadella
Street view
Palazzo Medolago Albani
Torre Civica – Campanone
Street view

What to eat

There are so many brilliant little bakeries and café’s you really can’t go wrong.

The two things that you should try whilst you’re here are the Casoncelli Bergamaschi which are pasta filled with a mixture of bread crumbs, egg, parmesan, ground beef, salami or sausage. These are usually served in a butter and sage sauce and are quite a simple dish but full of flavour. You’ll find this at pretty much every restaurant. Another thing to try is the polenta cake which I found a bit too sweet for me but still nice. If you like marzipan you will love this.

Another dessert to try, is the stracciatella icecream from La Marianna, it is where it was first created and they continue to make it in the same way.

La Marianna

Getting around

The funicular is the best and quickest option but you can also take the bus, numbers 1 and 1A take you to upper Bergamo. From Bergamo airport, you can reach the city by taking the Airport bus.

Upper Bergamo as well as the centre of Lower Bergamo are limited traffic areas. On Sundays and public holidays car traffic is prohibited from 10am – 12pm and 2pm – 7pm. With daylight savings time, access is also banned Friday and Saturday from 9pm to 1am.

Information point – the office is on Via Gombito, 13. It is open from Monday to Thursday 9am – 1pm and 1:30pm to 5:30pm; and Friday to Sunday from 9am – 5:30pm.

Hope you enjoyed this post! Happy exploring!!